Congratulations must be in order, because you’ve landed that new job, or have an exciting event to attend, or have otherwise made the decision that it’s time to suit up! Choosing and fitting a suit can seem intimidating if you’ve kept things casual until now, but we promise it’s not complicated. With a few of these basics in mind, you’ll be able to find an appropriate suit for your needs, and make sure it fits impeccably. First things first, let’s go over some sartorial terminology. You may come across these words as you peruse the racks, or shop online, or work with a tailor to get your fit just right.
Terminology (Suit Lingo)
Lapel – The pieces of fabric that fold over on either side of the jacket opening. They can be notched for casual and business purposes, or in a peaked or shawl style for more formal occasions.
Break – How much the bottom of your pant covers your shoe. This helps you determine the proper pant length
Vents – Slits in the hem of a jacket. There are either 2 on the sides, one in the middle, or none
Canvas – A panel of wool or horsehair inside the front of the jacket. This forms to the body over time, creating a smooth fit over the chest. Usually found in higher end suits
Tuxedo – A formal suit, differentiated from a regular suit by a satin lapel, a satin stripe down the side of the leg, and satin covered buttons.
Choosing a suit
Consider what your suit is for. For professional needs like a job interview or everyday office wear, you should start with a simple, solid-colored suit. Medium grey is perfect for your first work suit, because it is classic and appropriate for modern and conservative offices alike. Navy is a great second suit to add to your rotation. Again, simplicity is key as you start out, because these first suits are the foundations of your work wardrobe. You have your entire career to explore pinstripes and patterns. Is your suit for a particular event? We’ll help you with that ever-mysterious dress code.
Business Casual – Suit not required, but you can stay buttoned up with slacks, a collared shirt, and maybe even a sport coat
Semi Formal – A bit more elevated, opt for a suit in a grey, navy, or a modern, bright blue. You can have fun with a textured tie here, but keep your outfit simple and clean
Formal – You don’t have to go all the way to a tux, but wear your most dashing dark-colored suit, a crisp white dress shirt, and a simple tie.
Black Tie – This is your James Bond moment. Wear your tuxedo, whether it be black, midnight blue, grey, or a festive hue. Top it off with a bowtie.
Creative Black Tie
You know how on Red Carpets, you see gents in velvet jackets, patterned bow ties, and sockless loafers? It’s like that. Use this opportunity to be formal but show some personal flair. A good formula is to keep the majority of your outfit classic while adding one trendy, dapper detail.
Getting the right fit
Whatever the brand, whether off the rack or custom tailored, all suits start with a general fit style. This indicates how much room is between your body and the suit. Regardless of your preference, there are a few rules that apply to every fit. Always make sure you can button your jacket without the fabric pulling, and that you’re able to easily fit an outstretched hand into the front of the jacket while it’s buttoned. Sleeves should hit around where the base of your thumb meets the wrist with your arms down at your sides, and show about a half-inch of shirt cuff. Finally, never buy a suit without sitting down in it first. This will help you discover how the seat, thighs and waist fit.
If you like your clothes to fit snugly against your body, you’ll probably be comfortable in a slim style. Look for words like Slim, Modern and European. A note about slim pants: You’ll want a minimal break, meaning about a half an inch or less of fabric creasing over your shoe. Any more, and the fabric will bunch up like an accordian.
If you prefer a more conservative fit style, you’ll feel at home in a regular or relaxed style. This doesn’t have to mean boxy! The fabric should still graze the shape of your body, not hang too loosely. For this version, look for words like Classic, Regular and American.
Remember, these fit styles are simply guides, and do not guarantee a perfect fit every time. While a good starting point, they cannot account for especially broad shoulders, muscular legs, non-average heights, and all of the nuances that bodies have. That is why tailoring is so important. Suits are an investment, and alterations are more often than not a part of that cost. One or two sessions with a tailor’s expert eye and sewing skills can mean the difference between a suit that sits in your closet, and a suit that joins you for all the big moments of your life.
And if you’re in between sizes, keep in mind it is easier to take in than let out. A great suit can take you many places, whether it’s the boardroom, the Red Carpet, the altar, or anything in between. Keep this guide in mind and you’ll be sure to dress with confidence.
